By Sheila Madsen
I’ve created my own walking tours in every major city in Europe because the route must always meet my specific criteria; interesting history, clean restrooms, coffee stops, exceptional local shopping and the tour should end with an adult beverage combined with an awesome view. I’ve followed my same European rules for Centro Historico. This tour is for first timers, with a limited time frame. Remember, you are in a Mexican ocean side city filled with music, food carts, stray dogs, abandoned buildings, charming squares, and where life is lived on the streets. It’s joyous chaos. I hope you enjoy the lively streets of Centro as much as I do. (updated, April 2014)
[box title="An extremely short version of the history of Mazatlan" color="#E56E94"]
1922: One of the first English documented evidence of tourism in Mazatlan. The November issue of The National Geographic Magazine wrote a 56 page spread, with 45 photographs, titled “Adventuring Down The West Coast Of Mexico” by Herbert Corey. Corey refers to Mazatlan as “the city of parrots…Mazatlan is the Place Where the Deer Come Down to Drink, but it might well have been called the Place of the Girls…Nor can pretty girls have a more dainty setting. The residential district of the town is set along the half-moon of the Bay of Olas Altas, or High Waves, in which the rollers from China come to break upon the beach. This will be an important Pacific port when the works now in contemplation are completed. Then large ships can come in through the island portals that protect the entrance.”[/box]
[box title="Before you begin walking" color="#92c7c7"]
Depending upon your walking speed and your level of interest, this is a two hour self- guided walking tour; you’ll be walking about a mile. Don’t leave home before 10 a.m. (stores don’t open until 11) and don’t leave home without: sunscreen, comfortable footwear, bottled water, hat, $10 pesos for the green bus each way, lots of small pesos for shopping in the market (they don’t take any credit cards), a print out of this guide, and remember, look down at the sidewalk before you look up. The sidewalks of Centro have steep steps and “sudden endings” – literally, you should stop walking and then gaze.
You may encounter street beggars, they appear in various disguises: showing maimed limbs, sitting on street curbs, or often it’s a pretty eight year old girl selling flowers, and gum. You may also be asked to give to local re-hab centres. It is up to you, but my advice is to say “no gracias”. The city and business owners look after all these poor people in their own way. Now it’s time for you to stick out your hand out and flag the green bus (in 2014 the bus could be white too – they’ve had a face-lift!) The words stay the same: SABALO CENTRO, coming or going. There are a few formal bus stops, but mostly the bus will pick you up wherever you hail it. [/box]
Walk this way
[box title="# 1 The Market, El Mercado, Jose Maria Pino Suarez Market" color="#4E9258"]
We assume you are in the Golden Zone and are going to flag the green/white air conditioned bus that says Centro Sabalo. The cost is $10 (all prices quoted are in pesos.) The bus will travel along the Malecon and then turn into the busy centre and let you off on Aquiles Serdan and the market. If you are already in Centro, then meet us at the market. The large market, formally known as Jose Maria Pino Suarez Market has several entrances off Aquiles Serdan. Take the far left; you’ll see juice stands, vegetable and dairy stalls. We’ve chosen this entrance to avoid the rather sharp smells of the meat section where pig’s heads are proudly displayed along with other hanging meat. In 1900, this market was moved from the Town Hall Square/ Plaza Republica # 3, to this art nouveau style iron structure. There have been fires, floods and construction additions over the 111 years so it’s really difficult to appreciate the lavish iron work. There is a second storey packed with local restaurants but we are going to skip those and have you walk straight through to the street called Benito Juarez. Just before you reach that street you’ll see a “tourist section” (to the left and to the right) with dresses, sandals, silver, jewellery, purses, blankets, pottery and t shirts. The tour won’t bring you back here, so if you fall in love with an item, buy it now. Have small pesos at the ready, and try to be fair in your bargaining.
[box title="#2 The Cathedral, Cathedral Basilica de la Inmaculada Concepción" color="#4E9258"]
You’ll be standing on the busy street of Benito Juarez, and facing the fabric store Parisina. Stay on the market side of the street, turn left, cross Leandro Valle, and you’ll walk by the Panama Bakery (clean restrooms), and past the department store Fábricas de Francia (clean restrooms on the 3rd floor.) This an extremely congested area with local buses, tour buses, pulmonias, mums with strollers, dogs, and often beggars sitting on the sidewalk. There is nothing to see in this stretch so stay focused on what’s happening around you. To your right you’ll see the spires of the Cathedral. Before you cross observe the six windows facing you. Look closely and you’ll notice the Star of David – there’s a total of 28 Star of David’s, the world’s only Roman Catholic Church to display the Star of David. Be careful crossing Jose Maria Canizales; don’t assume a bus, a bicycle or a car will ever stop for a pedestrian. The building of the Cathedral took place in stages: from the early 1850’s until 1894. It’s very proud of their fine organ, believed to have been built in Paris, and played for the first time in 1889. Exterior and interior restoration is an on-going process, but today you can admire the gothic and baroque three naves, the main altar and side altars murals from 1942, and the large chandelier over the main altar from the 1950’s. Like any Mexican city our Cathedral represents a strong ecclesiastical and economic power. Hence the Stars of David – economic help from the Jewish community for further decorations and ironically, there is no synagogue today in Mazatlan. Think about it: the population of Mazatlan in the late 1800’s was about 14,000, yet the town had this grand Cathedral to worship and meet in.
[box title="#3 Town Hall Square, Plaza Republicá" color="#4E9258"]
Across the street is the Town Hall Square, which was the old market. You’ll see many shoe shine stalls surrounding the 1909 kiosk. This is where we bring all our shoe and purse repairs; it’s inexpensive, fast and top quality. The City Hall building is 140 years old and if you go through the main gates and up the stairs there are two interesting murals depicting Mazatlan’s Bicentennial (1810-2010) and the 1910 Revolution of Sinaloa painted by Aarón Zamudio. These are typically vivid scenes of religion, war generals, political struggles and eventually peace.
[box title="#4 The Medrano Building" color="#4E9258"]
Back on the square, turn left and walk along Angles Flores. When you see the bright red Santander Bank sign, you’ll cross and begin walking down Carnaval, you’ll be opposite an empty parking lot. Keep going and cross Mariano Escobedo; cross over to the empty parking lot side and look at the aging, empty, Medrano Building. It’s just been given a fresh coat of yellow paint. It’s pie shape entrance on two corners indicates wealth; an inefficient and expensive entrance. This was an elegant structure built in the late 1910’s, you can still see garland ornamentations around the windows.
[box title="#5 Rafael Lizarraga House and #5A Juarez Building" color="#4E9258"]
Cross Carnaval again to the side of the blue Medrano building and just before you reach the Plazuela Machado you’ll notice a long yellow two story building, the house of Rafael Lizarraga. This is also from 1910 with individual balconies, unusual for that period.
Today, the popular restaurant Pedro y Lola’s occupies the space, but in 1830 there was a hospital, conveniently close for business men who regularly met in the square in the 1830’s. [/box]
[box title="#6 The Imprenta Building" color="#4E9258"]
[box title="# 7 The Angela Peralta Theatre" color="#4E9258"]
Stop! Don’t go right, we aren’t going into the square yet, we are following Carnaval along to the Angela Peralta Theatre. Running adjacent to the theatre is the Fine Arts Municipal Center which houses the music and dance school. The ground floor dates from 1840, and in 2011 the school expanded along Constitution. Not much to see, but you may hear the music students practicing. Like many buildings in Mazatlan, the theatre has had several owners, and several phases of construction. It was first named Teatro Rubio and opened in 1874. The columns you see outside are the only remaining original architecture. It changed owners in 1880 and the lights were on for 50 years. It was one of the best known performing arts centres in western Mexico: opera, drama, orchestras, masquerade balls, festivals, boxing matches, and even films were shown in the theatre. In 1943 it was renamed the Angela Peralta Theatre in honour of the opera singer who died in 1883 – although “The Mexican dove, The Mexican nightingale” never sang on 1943 stage. From a movie theatre, to 1978 hurricane, to a tug of war between the private and the public sector, it went dark from 1978 until 1992. The restoration began in 1988 and the theatre re-opened under the city government in 1992. During 2011, Cultura, the government arm who manages, invites and stages all productions for the theatre, hosted hundred of events ranging from opera, to ballet, to symphonies, classical music and local Mexican productions. School kids attend (often for free), as do teenagers, adults, and seniors; it’s our cultural heartbeat. Mazatlan’s award winning contemporary dance company, Delfos, uses the space for rehearsals. It’s never dark now and always alive with talent. $12 peso entrance fee will show you the graceful interior open courtyard leading into the classic U shaped formation with three tiered levels, 840 seats. It’s Italian in style with ornate wrought iron balconies and railings. The building also has two art galleries. (clean restrooms, on the ground floor) Upstairs, is the Galeria with revolving art exhibits and the permanent photographic exhibit depicting the history of the theatre. Downstairs, is Galeria Rubio which also has eclectic art shows from all over the world.
[box title="#8 Plazuela Machado and the Portales de Cannobio" color="#4E9258"]
[box title="#9 The Machado Museum, Casa Machado Museum" color="#4E9258"]
[box title="#10 The German Notions Store Building" color="#4E9258"]
Leaving the museum you’ll continue walking along Constitucion and make a right turn on Belisario Dominguez, walking two short blocks and you’ll see a large purple and green building on the corner of Mariano Escobedo and Belisario Dominguez. No need to cross, you can’t get in it, but this is the 1904 German Notions Store Building. At the time it was a huge dry goods emporium selling everything from pianos to typewriters.
[box title="#11 The Reynaud Building" color="#4E9258"]
[box title="#12 Garcia House, Casa Garcia, or Garcia Mansion" color="#4E9258"]
Cross Belisario Dominguez, walk on left side (west), and turn right on the first street, Mariano Escobedo. Proceed along Mariano Escobedo, and turn left on the next corner, Niňos Heros. #1511 is the Garcia House and this structure dates from 1876. Multiple owners, Germans and Spanish used this magnificent house for various trading activities. Today, a prominent Mazatleco family has restored the entire inside and opened two restaurants, El Presidio and the upscale Cantina, Compañia Minera. Both are open every day from 1 p.m. on.
[box title="#13 Museo Arqueologico de Mazatlan, The Archaeological Museum" color="#4E9258"]
[box title="#14 Museo de Arte, The Museum of Art" color="#4E9258"]
Now you are facing a small cobblestone boulevard dotted with black olive and laurel trees. Walk along and to your left is the entrance to the Museo de Arte, opposite the pub Macaws. This imposing and beautiful one storey building is from 1896, and served as the headquarters of the Hidalgo family. The family owned hardware stores, construction supplies, and were important ship owners. There are three galleries: the permanent collection is in the Sala Antonio López Sáenz. The first revolving exhibit gallery is Sala Roberto Perez Rubio, and second exhibit gallery, across the courtyard with the ancient banyan tree, to the left, is Sala Carlos Bueno. The exhibits are all free, and are usually varied and thought provoking. The museum supports local talent as well as sculptors, photographers and interesting art installations from around the world. Hours are from Monday to Saturday, opens around 10 a.m., clean restrooms. This is a fun street, Sixto Osuna, so take your time: visit Tippy Toes Salon, LOOK Vintage and Modern Gallery, Casa Etnica, and La Rosi, a marvellous Mexican gift store.
[box title="#15 The Freeman Hotel" color="#4E9258"]
[box title="Shopping on the side streets" color="#003399"]
If you have time and want to squeeze in more shopping here are a few suggestions. They all open at 11 am. C -Nautilus Galeria (right beside The Machado Museum) Constitucion #77, gallery, jewellery, one of a kind pieces, open every day
(not on the map, brand new! LOOK Vintage and Modern Gallery, Sixto Osuna #59, closed Sundays, open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. During the summer, by appointment only. During September LOOK is open Fridays and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.) (Also not on the map is Casa Etnika, across from LOOK – great clothes, gifts, furniture, jewellery. )
[box title="Map" color="#4E9258"]